This is the second in a series of postcards from Japan by Mary Beth Woiccak. To read the first, a panoramic view of Nagoya from the 46th-floor Sky Promenade of Midland Square, click here.
The rhythm of the Pottery Footpath in Tokoname, Japan, fluttered quickly up and down the steep terrain. The narrow paths were lightly scattered with visitors and quiet the afternoon I passed through in late November. I can only imagine what the energy of this area was like when the kilns were in the height of their burning and productive years.
There is evidence of Tokoname's past as one of “The Six Ancient Kilns of Japan" and current activity all around. Pottery can be seen either in the earth for support, underfoot embedded in the path, in piles between houses, alongside kilns, on display, or in the numerous small shops along the way.
There is an assortment of ceramic pieces inserted into the earth for support. Along this line of camellias are pipes designed to encase underground cables. The way the pipes are vertically installed they look like vases for the trees, but appear only to collect the falling pedals and leaves instead.
Down the backside of another house, I wasn’t sure if I was passing someone’s collection, store display, or an artist installation of old and broken pottery. With Christmas around the corner, I couldn’t help nicknaming it “The Land of Misfit Pottery.”
Walking along some of the steep paths I was so close to the roof tiles that I could touch them. I didn’t want to damage the patina, but brushed my finger softly to feel the rough and layered surface. I hoped that maybe I would see a flash of what it was like to live and work there and understand the skills of the craftspeople.
Cats. I would be remiss if I did not mention Tokoname is home to the Maneki Neko (welcoming cat.) Cats are a common theme on the path (and this country.) One can’t get through it without passing at least one real furry cat, sculpture, or knick-knack. I even spotted a real bunny on a leash.
The sun was setting and knew I did not have much time left to view or photograph much more of this walk through the inspiring and rich past of Tokoname. The houses started to glow from within while the cast of blue fell over the hill and then the night darkened to black like the houses that were soot covered.
